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The Case for the Navy Blazer

If you can only own one jacket, make it a navy single-breasted blazer. It does more work than any other piece in menswear.

The Case for the Navy Blazer

If you can only own one jacket, make it a navy single-breasted blazer. It does more work than any other piece in menswear.

Why navy specifically

  • Goes with everything: grey trousers, charcoal trousers, beige chinos, dark jeans, cream linen. The only thing it struggles with is a navy bottom.
  • Reads dressy or casual: with a tie and grey trousers, it's smart casual. Over a tee with jeans, it's relaxed weekend wear.
  • Photographs well: navy holds detail in photographs in ways black absorbs and grey washes out.
  • Hides wear: small wrinkles, light dust, ink smudges show less on navy than on black.

What to look for

  • Wool or wool blend. Pure wool drapes best. Cotton blazers are summer-only.
  • Half-canvas construction minimum. Fully fused jackets bubble after a year.
  • Notch lapel for versatility. Peak lapels read more formal; shawl lapels are tuxedo-only.
  • Two-button single-breasted. Three-button is older; double-breasted is more formal.
  • Side vents (not centre vent). Modern, more flattering when seated.

Buttons

  • Horn or mother-of-pearl: the classic, dressy choice.
  • Brass / gold-tone: reads as "blazer" in the historical sense (closer to a navy club blazer). Slightly more casual when paired with chinos.
  • Black plastic: the cheap-jacket signal. Avoid.

The four ways to wear it

  1. With grey wool trousers + white shirt + tie: business casual, near-formal.
  2. With charcoal trousers + knit polo (no tie): creative business casual.
  3. With beige chinos + light blue oxford: classic American sport-coat look.
  4. With dark jeans + plain white tee: smart-casual evening.

Care

  • Dry clean only when actually dirty. Twice a year max. Over-cleaning kills wool.
  • Brush after wearing with a clothes brush. It removes lint and lifts the nap.
  • Hang on a wide wooden hanger. Wire hangers warp the shoulder.